ICtbrta 


SEYMOUR  DURST 


When  you  leave,  please  leave  this  book 

Because  it  has  been  said 
"Ever'thinQ  comes  t'  htm  who  waits 

Except  a  loaned  book." 


Avery  Architectural  and  Fine  Arts  Library 
Gift  of  Seymour  B.  Durst  Old  York  Library 


THE 


u. 

HUDSON 


SEARCHLIGHT 


Issued  by 

The  People's  Evening  Line  Steamers 
New  York 

Copyright,  1905,  X.  H.  Campbell 


"  The  starry  host  rode  brightest,  till  the  moon, 
Rising  in  clouded  majesty,  at  length, 
Apparent  queen,  unveiled  her  peerless  light 
And  oer  the  dark  her  silver  mantle  threw." 


NEW     YORK  HARBOR 


HUDSON 


and  everywhere  about  the  steamer's  pier  noise  and 
excitement  reign. 

To  our  right  a  majestic  "ocean  greyhound"  is 
clumsily  edging  up  to  her  dock;  on  our  left  an  un- 
gainly ferryboat  is  about  to  leave  her  slip,  laden  with 
Jerseyites  returning  from  their  daily  pilgrimage  to. 
New  York.  In  front,  all  manner  of  river  craft  are 
scurrying  hither  and  thither;  and  beyond,  the  Jersey 
shore  can  be  seen,  with  its  uninteresting  front  of  ware- 
houses, sugar  refineries  and  coal  docks. 

Finally,  all  is  in  readiness;  orders  are  being  shouted; 
the  hawsers  are  cast  off;  the  gong  sounds  and  the 
great  river  steamer,  trembling  with  the  throb  of  her 
engines,  pushes  her  nose  into  midstream.  A  glorious 
breeze  strikes  us,  and  our  voyage  up  "The  Beautiful 
Hudson"  has  begun. 

Perhaps  it  was  just  such  an  evening  when  Hendrick 
Hudson — three  hundred  years  ago — in  his  queer  look- 
ing little  craft,  the  "Half-Moon,"  leisurely  sailed  over 
the  same  waters,  past  the  little  villages  of  cedar  wig- 
wams and  beheld  the  native  redman  preparing  his 
evening  meal. 

What  a  contrast  the  present  scene  presents!  Great 
cities,  with  their  millions  of  souls,  have  supplanted 
the  wigwam,  the  camp-fire  and  the  forest,  and  in  place 
of  the  slow-going  little  Dutch  vessel,  the  traveler  finds 


LL  IS  hurry  and  bustle.  The  last  of 
the  luggage  destined  for  "up-state"  is 
being  rapidly  wheeled  on  board.  Late 
arrivals  are  crowding  the  gang-planks 


THE   PANORAMA  OF  THE  CITY 


himself  on  a  palatial  river  steamer,  with  appointments  and  a  cuisine  rivaling  even  the 
most  modern  of  metropolitan  hostelries. 

Astern  of  us  can  be  seen  a  beautiful  view  of  New  York  Harbor,  the  Narrows,  Staten 
Island,  and  the  Statue  of  Liberty.  On  the  New  York  shore  a  long  stretch  of  wharves, 
crowded  with  vessels  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe,  meets  the  eye;  and  forming  an  irregular 
and  imposing  background  are  the  highest  office  buildings  in  the  world.  As  we  make  our 
way  up  the  river,  we  pass  a  score  or  so  of  pleasure  yachts  riding  at  anchor;  some  have 
"steam  up"  and  are  ready  at  a  moment's  notice  to  carry  their  millionaire  masters  to  sum- 
mer homes  on  the  Hudson.  On  the  right  we  pass  the  massive  memorial  monument  which 
marks  the  last  resting-place  of  General  Ulysses S.  Grant  At  [29th  Street  we  Stop  for  the 
convenience  of  New  York's  uptown  dwellers.  On  leaving  the  pier  to  the  right  can  be  seen 
the  burial  ground  of  "Old  Trinity  Church,''  Xew  York,  with  monuments  almost  lost  in 
foliage  above  the  wooded  hillside.  Here  lie  buried  John  Jacob  Astor,  Robert  Livingston, 
and  Robert  Fulton,  the  inventor  of  the  first  steamboat.  At  this  point,  the  vista  ahead  is 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  sights  in  the  world.  The  sun  is  fast  sinking  in  the  west,  its 
golden  rays  glisten  on  cloud,  land  and  water,  and  bring  into  bold  relief  the  Palisade-  in 
all  their  grandeur.  This  wall  of  rock  runs  close  to  the  water's  edge,  and  in  some  places 
reaches  an  altitude  of  live  hundred  feet.  \Ye  are  now  almost  off  Point  Washington, 
where  in  1776  the  patriot  forces  met  with  a  crushing  defeat  at  the  hands  of  the  British. 
As  we  round  the  point,  the  beautiful  summer  moon  can  be  seen  rising  above  a  shaggy  hill. 

"The  lurking  shadows  dim  and  mute;  And  hedged  against  an  amber  light 

Fall  vaguely  on  the  dusky  river;  The  lone  hills  cling,  in  vain  endeavor, 

Vexed  breezes  play  a  phantom  lute;  To  touch  the  curtained  clouds  of  night, 

Athwart  the  waves  that  curl  and  quiver.  That,  weird  like,  form  and  fade  forever." 


The  Palisades  at  Spuyten  Duyvil. 


i  i 


Boat  Deck. 

Further  up  the  Spuyten  Duyvil  meets  the  Hud- 
son. This  is  the  first  point  of  special  legendary 
interest,  and  takes  its  name  from  an  incident  which 
happened  when  Peter  Stuy  vesant  was  governor  of  Xew 
Amsterdam.  It  seems  that  one  Anthony  Van  Corlear 
was  sent  post-haste  up  the  river  to  warn  the  farmers 
of  the  approach  of  the  Duke  of  York's  ships  in  the 
harbor  and  to  summon  them  to  the  defense  of  New 
Amsterdam.  He  had  reached  the  stream,  the  wind 
was  high,  the  elements  were  in  an  uproar,  and  no 
boatman  at  hand.  "For  a  short  time  he  vapored 
like  an  intelligent  ghost  upon  the  brink,  and  then, 
bethinking  himself  of  the  urgency  of  his  errand 
(to  arouse  the  people  to  arms),  he  took  a  hearty 
embrace  of  his  stone  bottle,  swore  most  valorously 
that  he  would  swim  across  in  spite  of  the  devil  (en 
spyt  den  dux  vel)  and  daringly  plunged  into  the 
stream.  He  was  observed  to  struggle  violently,  as 
if  battling  with  the  spirit  of  the  waters.  Instinc- 


Storm  King 


5 


tively,  he  put  his  trumpet  to  his  mouth,  and  giving 
a  vehement  blast,  sank  forever  to  the  bottom." 

The  shadows 
has  faded  away,  and 


grow  deeper  and  deeper;  twilight 


''Night  most  beautiful  and  rare 

Gives  the  heavens  their  holiest  hue, 
And  through  the  azure  fields  of  air, 
Invites  the  gentle  dew." 

A  flash!  and  the  steamer's  big  searchlight  casts  its 
great  white  beam  across  the  waters  and  discovers  the 
little  hamlet  of  Spuyten  Duyvil,  crowding  close  to  the 
river's  edge.  It  looks  quite  as  ancient  as  the  legend. 
Our  thoughts  of  bygone  days  are  rudely  disturbed 
by  the  appearance  of  Yonkers  further  up  the  right 
bank.  Here  manufacturing  buildings,  both  large  and 
small,  in  great  numbers  proclaim  the  modern  city. 
Almost  opposite,  a  cleft  now  known  as  Alpine  Gorge 
reaches  up  to  the  precipitous  sides  of  the  Palisades. 
The  landing  here  was  formerly  called  Cioster's. 


Sunar  Loaf. 


WASHINGTON   IRVING'S  HOME 


Here  the  British,  under  Lord  Grey,  in  1778,  crossed  to  Hackensack  Valley,  "surprising 
and  massacring  Col.  Boyler's  patriots,  despite  their  surrender  and  calls  for  mercy." 

Next,  above  Yonkers,  comes  Hastings  and  then  Dobb's  Ferry,  which  the  searchlight 
shows  to  be  an  exceedingly  pretty  village.  This  was  an  important  post  during  the  Revolu- 
tionary War.  Leaving  Dobb's  Ferry  behind,  the  searchlight  points  out  on  the  eastern  bank 
the  homes  of  several  prominent  and  well  known  people,  among  them  that  of  Cyrus  W. 
Field.  As  Irvington  is  approached  the  scene  is  unusually  charming.  The  river  at  this  point 
is  about  three  miles  wide;  the  searchlight  swings  from  point  to  point,  showing  the  sloping 
hills,  that  look  over  this  picturesque  bay,  to  be  literally  covered  with  beautiful  villas  and 
charming  grounds.  At  no  point  on  the  Hudson  are  there  more  evidences  of  wealth  and 
refinement,  and  the  locality  is  noted  as  one  of  the  most  aristocratic  suburbs  of  the  great 
metropolis.  Many  of  these  palatial  structures  are  furnished  with  the  world's  rarest  art 
treasures.  Just  beyond  is  Sunnyside,  once  the  home  of  Washington  Irving.  The  search- 
light clearly  brings  out  into  the  white  light  this  old-fashioned  house  with  its  many 
gables  shadowed  by  beautiful  trees  on  the  river  bank.  No  better  opportunity  could 
present  itself  than  to  refer  at  this  time  to  Washington  living's  own  words  in  speaking  of  the 
Hudson : 

"  I  thank  God  I  was  born  on  the  banks  of  the  Hudson  .  .  .  and  I  fancy  I  can  trace 
much  of  what  is  good  and  pleasant  in  my  heterogeneous  compound  to  my  early  com- 
panionship with  this  river.  In  the  warmth  of  my  youthful  enthusiasm,  I  used  to  clothe  it 
with  moral  attributes,  and  almost  give  it  a  soul.  I  admired  its  frank,  bold,  honest  character, 
its  noble  sincerity  and  perfect  truth.  Here  was  no  specious,  smiling  surface,  covering  the 
dangerous  sand  bar  or  perfidious  rock;  but  a  stream  deep  as  it  was  broad,  and  bearing 
with  honorable  faith  the  bark  that  trusted  to  its  waves.  I  gloried  in  its  simple,  quiet, 


Croton  Point. 


LEGEND   OF   TAPPAN  SEA 


majestic,  epic  flow;  ever  straightforward.  Once,  indeed,  it  turns  aside  for  a  moment, 
forced  from  its  course  by  opposing  mountains,  but  it  struggles  bravely  through  them,  and 
immediately  resumes  its  straightforward  marc  h.  Behold  thought  I,  an  emblem  of  ;i  good 
man's  course  through  life;  ever  simple,  open  and  direct,  or  if,  overpowered  by  adverse 
circumstances,  he  deviate  into  error,  it  is  but  momentary;  he  soon  recovers  his  onward  and 
honorable  c  areer,  and  continues  it  to  tin-  end  of  his  pilgrimage.  .  .  .  The  Hudson  is,  in  a 
manner,  my  first  and  last  love;  and  after  all  my  wanderings  and  seeming  infidelities  I 
return  to  it  with  a  heartfelt  preference  over  all  the-  other  river>  in  the  world.  I  .seem  to  catch 
new  life  as  I  bathe  in  its  ample  billows  and  inhale-  the-  pure-  breezes  of  its  hills." 

It  is  a  short  swing  of  the  light  from  Sunnyside  to  "  Lyndhurst" — the  former  home  of 
Jay  Gould,  and  now  owned  and  occ  upied  by  his  daughter,  Helen  Gould.  All  along  the 
banks,  with  just  a  chimney  or  a  roof  discemable  through  the  foliage,  arc-  scores  of  homes 
of  men  whose  names  are  prominent  in  the  great  business  world  of  New  York.  It  is  here 
that  they  endeavor  to  find  peace  and  quietness  f<»r  a  few  months  each  year. 

Directly  across  lies  the  village  of  Piehnont,  where  the  Erie  Railroad  has  a  pier  extend- 
ing a  mile  out  into  the  Tappan  Sea — so  named  because  the  Tappail  Indians  were  found 
along  its  waters  by  the  first  navigators.  Many  a  story  might  be  told  of  it>  water-  and  circling 
shores.   Washington  Irving  tells  the  following  tale: 

"The  Tappan  Sea,  at  a  point  off  the  Roost  is  about  three  miles  wide,  bordered  by  a 
lofty  line  of  waving  and  roc  ky  hills.  Often,  in  the  ^till  twilight  of  a  summer  evening,  when 
the  sea  is  like  glass,  w  ith  the  opposite  hills  throw  ing  their  purple  shadows  half  across  it,  a 
low  sound  is  heard,  as  of  the  steady,  vigorous  pull  of  oars,  far  out  in  the  middle  of  the 
stream,  though  not  a  boat  is  to  be  descried.  This  I  should  have  been  apt  to  ascribe  to  some 
boat  rowed  along  under  the  shadows  of  the  western  shore,  for  sounds  are  conveyed  to  a 
great  distance  by  water  at  such  quiet  hours;  and  I  can  distinctly  hear  the  baying  of  the 
watch-dogs  at  night  from  the  farms  on  the  sides  of  the  opposite  mountains.  The  ancient 
traditionists  of  the  neighborhood,  however,  religiously  ascribed  these  sounds  to  a  judgment 
upon  one  Rumbout  Van  Dam,  of  Spiting  Devil,  who  danced  and  drank  late  one  Saturday 
night  at  a  Dutch  quilting  frolic,  at  Kakiat,  and  set  ofT  alone  for  home  in  his  boat,  on  the 
verge  of  Sunday  morning,  swearing  he  would  not  land  until  he  reached  Spiting  Devil,  if  it 
took  him  a  month  of  Sundays.  He  was  never  seen  afterward,  but  is  often  heard  plying  his 
oars  across  the  Tappan  Sea,  a  Flying  Dutchman  on  a  small  scale,  suited  to  the  size  of  his 
cruising  ground;  being  doomed  to  ply  between  Kakiat  and  Spiting  Devil  till  the  days  of 
judgment,  but  never  to  reach  the  land." 


8 


THE   OLD   DUTCH  CHURCH 


Across  the  waters  on  the  right  can  be  seen  the  Lights  of  Tarn  town  twinkling  in  the 
distance.  Passing  this  sleepy  looking  little  town,  the  searchlight  shows  beautiful  home-  in 
among  the  foliage  and  trees;  and  on  the  river  bank,  just  above,  elegant  mansions  sur- 
rounded with  the  finest  examples  of  landscape  gardening  in  America.  Further  inland  at 
this  point  is  located  Sleepy  Hollow  ,  made  famous  by  Washington  Irving  in  his  writings. 
"It  is  a  little  valley,  or  rather  a  lap  of  land,  among  high  hills,  which  is  one  of  the  quietest 
places  in  the  whole  world.  A  small  brook  glides  through  it,  with  just  murmur  enough  to 
lull  one  to  repose,  and  the  occasional  whistle  of  a  quail,  or  tapping  of  a  woodpecker,  is 
almost  the  only  sound  that  breaks  in  upon  the  uniform  tranquility."  If  you  go  there  to-day 
you  will  see  the  little  old  Dutch  church  built  in  1699,  a  small  building  with  rough  sides  of 
stone,  over  which  still  rotates  the  vane  pierced  with  the  initials  of  Frederick  Felypsen,  who 
built  and  endowed  the  little  sanctuary:  In  the  churchyard  is  the  grave  of  Washington  Irving 
in  the  middle  of  a  large  plot  purchased  by  him  in  [853,  six  years  before  his  death.  A  mod- 
ern bridge  has  replaced  the  ancient  one,  over  which  "The  Headless  Horseman"  was  wont 
to  ride,  but  the  tranquil  and  weedy  pond  below  is  the  same  as  that  of  the  days  when  the 
burghers  brought  their  grist  a-horseback  to  be  ground  at  Wheat  Town  (Tarrytown);  and 
the  identical  old  mill  is  still  standing  under  the  trees  at  the  foot  of  the  pond,  by  its  moss- 
grown  dam.  About  half  way  between  Tarrytown  and  Sleepy  Hollow  a  monument  marks 
the  spot  where  Andre  was  shot,  and  which  bears  the  following  inscription: 

On  this  spot 
The  25th  day  of  September,  1780,  the  Spy 
MAJOR  JOHN  ANDRIi 
Adjutant-General  of  the  British  Army,  was  captured 
by  John  Paulding,  David  Williams  and  Isaac  Van  Wart 
All  natives  of  this  country. 


A  CORNER  OF  THE  CAFE  DECK 


Crow's  Nest,  truni  Constitution  Inland 


On  the  west  shore  graceful  blending  of  valley  and  hill  has  taken  the  place  of  the  rugged 
Palisades,  and  the  peaceful  tow  n  of  Xyack  i-  gradually  being  left  behind. 

"There  breaks  upon  the-  blessed  calm, 
Deep,  <l>'ing  melodies  of  even — 
Those  Xyack  bells,  like  some  sweet  psalm 
They  float  along  the  vault  of  heaven." 

About  us  the  moon's  rays,  marvelous  and  lucent,  strike  the  rippling  water,  and  the 
inland  sea  becomes  a  mass  of  molten  silver.  On  its  clear  surface  the  sails  of  diminutive 
yachts  float  along  and  troops  of  gull-like  boats  fly  against  the  current  when  the  night  breeze 
dashes  across  the  water,  or  stand  idly  in  an  intermittent  calm.  And  against  all  this  fairy- 
like scene  the  great  hills  on  both  sides — sometimes  bold,  sometimes  gentle  and  retreating — 
loom  up  in  dark  shadowy  lines.  Our  searchlight  travels  from  point  to  point,  and  suddenly 
brings  within  our  vision  some  hitherto  unseen  mountain  home  or  a  fisherman  patiently 
following  his  calling  in  a  quiet  little  nook  by  the  water's  edge. 


TABLEAUX  OF  THE  SEARCHLIGHT 


Twinkling  lights  just  beyond 
a  jut  in  the  river  on  the  right  tell 
us  we  are  approaching  Ossining, 
where  some  ten  thousand  people 
dwell  amid  surroundings  that  for 
health  and  beauty  can  hardly  be 
matched  in  the  whole  valley. 
The  town  lies  upon  rocky  hills 
and  overlooks  the  most  varied, 
and  perhaps,  the  most  beautiful 
river  landscape  along  the  valley. 
Near  the  river  bank  a  number 
of  low  white  buildings  can  be 
seen — the  State  Prison,  famous 
in  history  as  Sing  Sing.  Just 
above  Ossining  the  Croton  River 
joins  the  Hudson.  East  of  this 
point  is  a  watershed,  having  an 
area  of  350  square  miles,  which 
supplies  New  York  City  with 
water.  Standing  on  the  deck  of 
the  steamer  one  is  constantly  sur- 
prised by  glimpses  given  by  the 
searchlight  through  the  trees  and 
foliage,  of  bits  of  scenery  which 
are  picturesque  in  the  truest  sense 
of  the  word. 

That  extension  of  land  in  the 
water  ahead  is  called  Tellers 
Point  and  is  the  boundary  line 
between  Tappan  Sea  and  Haver- 
straw  Bay.  Rounding  the  point, 
the  river  opens  into  a  beautiful 
bay  four  miles  in  width.  The 


The  Saloon  Galleries. 


Breaknei  k 


eastern  shore  is  a  mass  of  hills,  increasing  northward  to  where  the  Highlands  form  a 
rugged  wall  across  the  whole  northern  horizon.  Westward  ties  the  village  of  Haverstraw 
with  the  historic  headland,  Stony  Point  jutting  just  out  beyond  it.  The  tall  peak  which 
overshadows  the  town  is  High  Tor.  It  was  in  this  neighborhood  that,  much  of  what 
our  history  holds  of  song  and  story  was  gathered.  North  of  Haverstraw,  with  the  aid  of 
the  searchlight,  may  he  seen  the  eminence  of  Treason  Hill,  where  in  the  stone  hOuse  of 
Dr.  Joshua  Smith,  Arnold  and  Andre  perfected  the  treasonable  plot. 

Sailing  past  the  low  meadows  and  brickyards  of  Grassy  Point  the  searchlight  strikes 
Stony  Point.  Here  it  was  that  one  of  the  most  brilliant  exploits  in  American  History  was 
enacted.  In  1779  the  British  made  of  Stony  Point  "a  little  Gibraltar"  which  they  boasted 
was  quite  impregnable.  The  corps  of  Light  Infantry  stationed  at  Fort  Montgomery 
under  the  command  of  Gen.  Anthony  Wayne,  was  ordered  by  Washington  to  storm,  and 
if  possible,  take  Stony  Point.  It  was  said  that  when  asked  whether  he  thought  he  could 
storm  Stony  Point,  the  impetuous  Wayne — "Mad  Anthony" — replied,  " I'll  storm  hell 


Cornwall  and  Storm  King. 

14 


THE   HUDSON  HIGHLANDS 


if  you'll  make  the  plans,  sir!" 
Washington  replied:  "Better  try 
Stony  Point  first,  General."  Try 
Stony  Point  he  did,  and  with  bril- 
liant success. 

The  river  now  takes  a  sudden 
turn  to  the  east  and  as  the  steamer 
rounds  Yerplanks  Point  we  enter 
the  portals  of  the  Hudson  High- 
lands. To  our  right,  and  somewhat 
inland  the  Spitzenberg  Mountain 
rises  to  a  great  height,  and  on  the 
opposite  bank,  to  the  north  of 
Tompkins  Cove,  Mount  Dunderberg 
reaches  a  height  of  nearly  eleven 
hundred  feet. 

Except  for  the  regular  swish  of 
the  water  against  the  steamer's  sides, 
hardly  a  sound  is  heard  as  we  pass 
along.  Now  and  then  the  river 
breaks  with  faintest  murmur  on  the 
precipitous  shore,  or  trembling 
echoes  strike  the  hillsides  plain- 
tively, when  some  bird,  disturbed 
by  the  flash  of  our  searchlight  upon 
her  nest,  gives  forth  her  shrill  cry  of 
protest  and  disappears  into  deeper 
foliage. 

Ahead  of  us  and  situated  on  a 
slope  at  the  head  of  a  bay  formed 
by  another  turn  of  the  river  is 
Peekskill — a  prosperous  and  steadily 
growing  town.  Here  it  was  that  the 
late  Rev.  Henrv  Ward  Beecher  used 


The  Promenade  Deck. 


The  C.  \Y.  Morse  Approaching  Poughkeepsie. 


to  come  during  the  summer  months  and  rest  on  his  farm  situated  about  two  miles  in- 
land. Chauneev  M.  Depew,  the  famous  after-dinner  speaker,  and  President  of  the  New 
York  Central  Railway,  has  a  summer  residence  in  the  neighborhood.  The  steamer 
takes  another  turn  in  a  northwesterly  direction  and  rounds  Kidd's  Point,  where  tradition 
has  it,  Captain  Kidd's  pirate  vessel  was  smashed  upon  the  rocks.  Angleways  across  on 
the  plains  above  can  be  seen  the  white  tents  of  the  State  militia.  It  is  here  each  year 
during  the  summer  months  that  the  various  regiments  throughout  the  State  are  brought 
to  encamp  and  are  drilled  in  the  practical  work  of  campaigning. 

We  are  now  approaching  the  locality  which  is  regarded  by  all  as  the  scenical  climax 
of  the  river  trip.  At  this  point  the  river  narrows  down  to  about  three-quarters  of  a  mile  in 
width,  and  on  both  sides  the  shores  attain  a  great  height — Mount  Dundenberg  on  one 
side  and  Manito  and  Anthony's  Nose  on  the  other.  This  particular  portion  of  the  river  is 
called  ''The  Horse  Race,"  and  is  said  to  be  the  most  dangerous  part  to  navigate.  In  the 
distance  Mount  Bear  (1,400  feet  high)  looms  up,  and  still  further  north  the  higher  slopes 
of  Mount  Rascal  and  Black  Rock  can  be  seen  outlined  against  the  starry  sky.  Round  and 

16 


The  C.  W.  Morse  at  Poughkeepsie  Bridge. 


about  this  locality,  on  both  river  and  shore,  many  important  battles  were  fought  between 
patriot  forces  and  the  British  in  1777.  Passing  Anthony's  Nose,  we  enter  Cranston's 
Reach,  and  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  within  easy  range  of  the  searchlight,  can  be  seen 
many  beautiful  summer  homes,  and  among  them  that  of  John  S.  Gilbert,  the  famous 
architect.  A  small  distance  ahead,  just  opposite  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain,  is  the  residence 
of  J.  Pierrepont  Morgan  "the  Finance  King."  The  searchlight  playing  from  point  to 
point  suddenly  brings  into  bold  relief  a  beautiful  little  cataract  tumbling  down  a  cliff  of  the 
rocky  shore;  it  bears  the  name  of  Buttermilk  Falls.  The  large  building  just  above  is 
"Lady  Cliff,"  now  used  as  a  girls'  seminary,  but  originally  built  for  a  hotel  and  known  as 
Cranston's.  Notwithstanding  the  present  beautiful  surroundings,  our  eyes  cannot  but 
rest  upon  West  Point  ahead  of  us.  On  it  a  group  of  buildings  can  be  seen,  with  here  and 
there  a  cluster  of  trees  partially  obscuring  a  full  view — this  is  West  Point  Military  Academy. 
The  location  is  ideal  and  takes  rank  as  the  most  beautiful  spot  on  the  Hudson. 

Again  a  sharp  turn  to  the  left  and  the  Hudson's  two  most  famous  mountains — Cro' 
Nest  and  Storm  King — frown  down  upon  us.    Across  on  the  eastern  shore  are  Mt. 


17 


CRO*    NEST   AND   STORM  KING 


Taurus  and  Breakneck  Moun- 
tain. All  four  arc  over  fourteen 
hundred  feet  high.  Passing  be 
tween  these  great  rugged  and 
precipitous  walls  of  rock,  we 
shortly  find  ourselves  in  New 
burg  Hay,  where  Hendrick 
Hudson  entered  for  the  first 
time  on  the  15th  day  of  Septem- 
ber, 1600,  and  on  his  return 
voyage  down  the  river  dropped 
anchor  the  25th  of  September, 
1609. 

Nestling  at  the  foot  of 
Storm  King  Mountain  is  the 
town  of  Cornwall.  Such  well- 
known  people  as  Rev.  E.  P. 
Roe,  Nathaniel  P.  Willis  and 
Amelie  E.  Barr  have  had  sum- 
mer homes  in  its  neighborhood.     The  Main  Ptomg 

The  view  is  impressive  and  no  doubt  is  the  same  one  which  inspired  Rodman 
Drake  in  his  famous  "Culprit  Fay"  to  pen  the  following: 

'*'Tis  the  midnight  watch  of  a  summer  night, 
The  earth  is  dark,  but  the  heavens  are  bright, 
The  moon  looks  down  on  old  Cro'  Nest — 
She  mellows  the  shade  on  his  shaggy  nest, 
And  seems  his  huge  gray  form  to  throw 
In  a  silver  cone  on  the  wave  below." 

In  striking  contrast  to  wild  regions  and  sleepy  little  towns  through  which  we  have 
been  passing,  brilliantly  lighted  Newburg  can  be  seen  in  the  near  distance.  From  the 
boat  may  be  seen  the  house  which  Washington  made  the  general  headquarters  of  the 
Northern  Army  from  April  1782  to  August,  1783.  The  property  was  purchased  by  the 
State  of  New  York  in  1840  and  is  now  used  as  an  historical  museum.  The  grounds 
are  beautifully  kept,  and  here  and  there  can  be  seen  stationed  old-fashioned  cannon. 


18 


QUEEN  CITY  OF  THE  HUDSON 


Nearby  is  the  comparatively 
new  Tower  of  Victory  erected 
by  the  nation  in  1784.  Oppo- 
site is  the  old  Fishkill  Land- 
ing, one  of  the  many  small 
towns  along  the  Hudson  River 
which  formed  part  of  the  theatre 
of  the  Revolutionary  War. 

After  leaving  Newburg ,  the 
scenery  once  more  reverts  to 
quiet  beauty,  and  only  in  the 
back  country  can  be  seen  the 
great  rolling  hills.  For  some 
distance  from  the  river  the 
country  is  comparatively  level. 

Passing  Low  Point,  Hugh- 
sonville  and  New  Hamburg, 
we  enter  a  narrow  channel  of 
the  river.    From  Marlborough 
The  Quarter  Deck.  on  immense  square  buildings 

can  be  seen  at  intervals  on  the  shores.  These  are  storehouses  in  which  great  quantities 
of  ice  are  packed  during  the  winter  season,  and  later  on  sent  to  New  York  in 
barges.  This  business  gives  employment  to  great  numbers  of  men  who  are  river 
workers  in  summer,  and  enables  them  to  make  a  comfortable  living  until  the  following 
season  opens. 

About  two  miles  ahead,  the  Poughkeepsie  Bridge  can  be  seen  somewhat  indistinctly. 
It  appears  to  be  a  frail  looking  structure,  until  a  closer  view  shows  its  immense  size,  it 
was  built  in  1889,  at  a  cost  of  $3,500,000,  and  is  about  two  and  a  half  miles  in  length. 

On  the  eastern  shore  is  the  city  of  Poughkeepsie,  known  as  the  "Queen  City 
of  the  Hudson."  It  is  notable  for  beautiful  residences  and  the  various  educational 
institutes  located  in  or  near  its  precincts — chief  among  them  being  Vassar  and  Eastman 
Colleges. 

Leaving  Poughkeepsie  behind,  the  Hudson  River  State  Hospital,  comprising  a  number 
of  buildings,  can  be  seen  standing  in  bold  prominence  on  the  hills  just  north  of  the  city, 


19 


THE    CATSKILL  MOUNTAINS 


and  further  along  the  bank,  at 
various  distances  dividing  them, 
are  many  costly  and  handsome 
residences. 

A  half  hour's  sail  from  the  city 
brings  us  to  krum  Elbow  the 
name  given  to  a  rounded  portion 
of  the  western  hank  where  the 
river  makes  another  turn — and 
as  we  swing  around,  away  in  the 
distance  to  the  north  can  be  seen  ' 
the  dim  outlines  of  the  Catskills, 
which  aside  from  their  fame  as 
mountains  will  always  be  re- 
membered as  the  locality  where 
Rip  Van  Winkle  slept  for  twenty 
years.  It  will  be  remembered 
that  just  recently  Joseph  Jef- 
ferson ("the  grand  old  man  of 

the  Stage")  who  made  Rip  Van  A  Stateroom  De  Lux,. 

Winkle  a  classic  character  of  the  American  drama,  died.  The  searchlight  traces  out 
Kaaterskill  Clove,  and  the  adjacent  mountains,  whose  wooded  recesses  and  phmging 
streams  so  appealed  to  Washington  Irving  a  century  ago.  Its  beams  reveal  at  this  great 
distance  the  resort  hotels,  which  crown  the  mountain's  brow,  mere  specks  of  white  dis- 
cernable  against  the  midnight  sky.  This  horizon  is  lower  because  much  more  distant 
than  any  other  passed,  although  the  peaks  reach  4,000  feet  altitude  in  some  cases. 

It  is  now  past  midnight  and  our  sister-boat  is  momentarily  expected  on  her  trip  down 
the  Hudson  from  Albany.  Our  searchlight  casts  its  beams  into  the  clouds,  in  order  to  attract 
her  attention.  Finally,  as  we  are  abreast  of  the  residence  of  Judge  Parker  at  Esopus,  on 
the  western  bank,  we  receive  the  answering  signal,  and  when  Rondout  is  reached,  we  pass 
each  other,  exchanging  "good-nights"  as  we  rapidly  sail,  each  one  on  our  way. 

It  will  be  necessary,  if  one  is  to  get  a  full  quota  of  sleep  before  Albany  is  reached,  to 
cast  a  departing  glance  at  the  river,  which  has  entertained  with  her  magnificent  scenery 
for  over  six  hours,  and  seek  an  inviting  stateroom  below. 


PALATIAL   RIVER  STEAMERS 


THE  great  river  steamers 
of  the  People's  Line  have 
become  a  part  of  the  later  his- 
tory of  the  majestic  Hudson 
since  they  have  maintained  a 
continuous  service  between  New 
York  and  Albany.  To-day,  the 
service  of  the  line  is  the  best  in 
the  wrorld,  the  magnificent  new 
steel  steamer  "C.  W.  Morse," 
having  been  commissioned  to 
alternate  with  the  "  Adiron- 
dack." 

In  general  contour  and  in 
grace  of  outline,  these  sister 
steamers  strike  the  observer  as 
being  much  alike.  The  "Morse" 
is,  however,  considerably  the 
larger,  and  has,  in  point  of  fact, 
accommodations  for  more  pas- 
sengers than  any  steamer  plying  the  American  coast  or  inland  waters,  there  being  no 
less  than  450  staterooms,  exclusive  of  those  used  by  the  officers.  She  has  a  length  over 
all  of  427  feet,  equal  to  almost  two  uptown  New  York  City  blocks.  She  has  a  breadth  of 
90  feet,  which  is  about  as  wide  as  Fifth  Avenue,  and  her  four  decks  give  her  a  height 
wlach  would  make  her  almost  out-top  a  row  of  "brownstone  fronts." 

There  are  scores  of  "window  seats,"  from  which  an  entirely  unobstructed  view  of  the 
majestic  Hudson  scenery  may  be  had.  When  darkness  comes  on,  the  great  searchlight  for- 
ward, with  its  36-inch  lens  (the  size  used  on  battleships),  picks  out  the  beautiful  spots  on 
shore  or  mountain  and  illuminates  them  with  almost  startling  weirdness  and  brilliancy. 

To  maintain  the  high  standard  of  the  line  as  regards  its  cuisine,  much  thought  has 
been  spent  upon  the  kitchen  of  the  "  C.  W.  Morse."  As  a  result,  it  compares  most  favorably 
with  the  largest  and  best  kitchens  of  the  metropolitan  hotels.  Every  known  appliance, 
from  the  great  sixteen-foot  range  and  immense  broilers  to  the  automatic  egg-cooking  device, 
has  been  installed.  The  refrigerating  plant,  the  pantries,  the  bakery,  and  the  dishwashing 


The  Forward  Saloon. 


THE  ADIRONDACK 


and  heating  appliances  are  all  of  the  best  and  most  modern  make,  and  the  conveniences  of 
the  serving  room  unexcelled. 

As  the  passenger  ascends  the  broad  stairway  from  the  lower  lobby,  adjoining  which 
are  located  the  Purser's  Office,  Barber  Shop,  Parcel  Room,  he  finds  himself  in  the  Grand 
Saloon,  running  the  entire  length  of  the  enclosed  portion  of  the  steamer.  It  is  here  that  he 
gets  his  first  impression  of  the  enormous  size  of  the  "  Morse."  Two  galleries,  with  their 
mahogany  guard  rails  and  green  bronze  grill  work,  enclose  the  Saloon,  and  from  them,  as 
from  the  main  floor,  open  the  staterooms,  so  cleverly  arranged  that  there  are  few  inside 
rooms  and  none,  in  fact,  which  are  not  freely  ventilated  from  the  outside. 

The  color  scheme  of  the  Main  Saloon  is  white  and  green,  and  it  has  been  so  beautifully 


Cold  Spring. 

22 


THE 


C.     W.  MORSE 


executed  that  the  effect  is  wonderfully  pleasing  and  restful,  with  none  of  the  over-decoration 
and  garishness  so  often  found  on  steamers.  There  are  a  number  of  cabins  de  luxe,  whose 
walls  are-  hung  in  silk  and  cotton  of  pleasing  pinks,  blues  or  greens,  with  ceilings  in  ivory 
and  gold.  These  sumptuous  apartments  are  furnished  with  double  brass  beds  and  have 
private  bath  and  toilet  adjoining,  and  are  so  arranged  that  they  may  be  taken  singly  or 
en  suite,  furnishing  the  acme  of  traveling  comfort.  There  are  also  on  each  deck  bathrooms 
for  the  use  of  passengers  occupying  staterooms  without  baths  attached,  a  feature  which  is 
an  entire  novelty  on  river  steamers.  The  decks  of  the  "G.  W.  Morse"  are  enormous  in 
height  and  of  unusual  breadth,  and  the  upper  deck  permits  of  an  unobstructed  promenade 
around  the  entire  steamer.  Aft  upon  this  deck  is  the  large  Palm  Garden  and  the  cafe. 


The  C.  \\.  Morse  at  Albany. 

23 


SAFETY     APPLIANCES     AND  EQUIPMENT 


Structurally,  the  "Morse"  is  a  model  of  marine  construction  of  the  highest  type. 
Many  water-tight  bulkheads  are  properly  placed  to  insure  the  safety  of  the  steamer  and  her 
passengers  in  case  of  accident.  The  deck-houses  on  the  freight  space  are  enclosed  in  steel 
up  to  the  saloon  deck,  and  the  entire  motive  power  of  vessel  is  thoroughly  enclosed  in  steel, 
where  possibility  of  lire  exists. 

The  electric  plant  has  a  maximum  capacity  of  3,000  sixteen-candle-power  lamps,  and 
consists  of  three  multipolar  direct-coupled  compound  wound  dynamos,  driven  by  vertical 
engines  of  the  General  Electric  Company's  make.  The  electric  engines  are  so  connected 
that  they  may  work  either  low  or  high  pressure,  as  desired.  Every  precaution  has  been 
taken  to  have  the  electric  wiring  of  the  very  highest  class  and  perfectly  fire  and  water  proof, 
the  entire  feeders  and  circuits  being  incased  in  iron  conduits,  not  over  eight  lights  on  any 
one  circuit.  The  searchlight  is  the  largest  made.  It  is  without  question  one  of  the  most 
thoroughly  equipped  marine  plants  in  existence. 

The  vessel  is  equipped  with  electric  bells,  thermostatic  push  buttons,  fire  alarms, 
automatic  whistle,  watchmen's  c  loc  k.-,  telephones  for  spec  ial  service,  and  w  here  auxiliaries 
are  not  run  by  steam,  electric  motors  are  used. 

Two  complete  and  separate  systems  of  steering  gear  are  used — steam  and  hand. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  specify  all  of  the  details  which  enter  into  the  "  Morse,"  which 
make  her  a  veritable  floating  palace  in  all  that  these  much  used  words  imply.  The  com- 
pany has  omitted  nothing  in  her  construction  or  equipment  which  makes  for  safety,  com- 
fort or  convenience,  and  no  detail  of  luxury  has  been  slighted.  The  "C.  W.  Morse"  is  a 
credit  to  American  shipping  circles,  as  well  as  to  the  company  which  owns  her  and  the 
concerns  which  constructed  and  furnished  her. 


